British Modern Military History Society - 4 Days in Normandy

4 Days in Normandy - D-Day 80th Anniversary...Reflections

by Andy Cockeram

Tickets, Tickets, We have Tickets for the Ver sur Mer Memorial Service

It was with great excitement that my wife Jane and I received the news in early April that we had been successful in the Royal British Legion ballot to attend the D Day 80^th anniversary event at Ver sur Mer on 6^th June 2024. A trip to Normandy had been on our bucket list for some time as Jane’s father, Herbert Chadwick and her Uncle Stan had both fought through Normandy with the Kings Own Yorkshire Light Infantry and on to until the end of the war. For her father the war ended in Austria as part of the liberating/occupying forces where he first met Jane’s mother, Hella, an Austrian school teacher who acted as a translator.

Her father had won the Military Medal on 25^th June at Tessel Wood just 8 miles south west of Caen and Jane was keen to re-trace his footsteps as far as possible.

A mad scramble to find suitable accommodation and to get ferry tickets for our trip followed but within a couple of hours we were all set to go…a ferry out from Portsmouth on 4^th June returning on the 7^th, with accommodation at a small coastal town of Luc sur Mer located immediately between Sword and Juno beaches. It was all pretty expensive but as a one-off really worth it.

Tuesday 4th June - Heading to Normandy

Inside and out our ferry was adorned with flags and bunting. A celebratory party atmosphere. With the 23 or so D Day Veterans and their guardians sitting just a few feet away as the bar areas filled up, with everyone in good spirits, music playing

The trip across was quite amazing…pipe bands, a Welsh male voice choir, the Blue Bells singing 1940s favourites, a quiz. Everyone in great spirits, and with a common goal – to experience a momentous event that can never be repeated. Everyone had a personal reason for being there…normally a relative who had landed on D Day or fought in Normandy or just to pay tribute to the veterans and the fallen.

Under grey skies we looked out upon the flotilla escort out of Portsmouth. The fire ships spraying jets of water behind us, smaller yachts and boats following, people waving and cheering from the shore and RN ships, their mighty horns blasting out across the water saluting our ferry, Le Mont St Michel, and its Veterans. Then the fly-over of the A400 which did a double circuit above us.

We watched the veterans, some moving under their own steam, some in wheelchairs – the youngest was in their late 90s! – the Jedburgh pipe and drum band playing stirring and well known songs. It was spine tingling, as we headed away from the naval dockyard with passing HMS Warrior, the Mary Rose and HMS Victory just a few hundred yards away. Many of the passengers watching the event clutched tissues as the emotions took hold.

The memorial service later in the afternoon was particularly moving. The Veterans arrived, all immaculately turned out in their uniforms and medals on their breasts, waving to the other passengers looking down on them from higher decks. With their helpers supporting them or pushing them in their wheelchairs they assembled at the stern of the ship with the band playing well known tunes. The short service lead by the chaplain followed, in complete silence as the ferry slowed and then stopped for about 20 minutes. A veteran wearing an Arctic convoy beret was helped by a slightly younger son or relation, (probably in his 70s) to the side of the ship and their white wreath was placed overboard into the calm blue grey sea by a veteran with the bugler playing the Last Post. Two minutes silence immaculately respected, Reveille was sounded by the bugler, and the piper, the son of the famous Bill Millin, played a moving lament. Many tears were shed all around.

To be able to meet and chat with some of the veterans who were sitting about 30 feet away in the bar area, some with a pint in hand, was a privilege. All very humble and modest and perhaps a bit overwhelmed by the amount of attention.

The whole atmosphere was positive, respectful with all having a common aim to absorb the whole experience…far exceeding our wildest expectations.

Wednesday 5th June 2024 – Tracing Family Footsteps

Our main plan on day 2 was to find where Jane’s Dad had fought. Arriving at the tiny hamlet of Tessel an old Frenchman was locking up the tiny village hall by the church. He had no English and us only tourist level French, but he was keen to show us around the church, with a plaque to the fallen and a wooden plaque in the village hall which listed all the British regiments, including the KOYLI, which had taken part in the operation. He explained that nearby Tessel Wood, where Jane’s father had fought was much smaller than in 1944 and very difficult to access. Nevertheless it was moving to be where Jane’s dad had been and fought. More tears, but it gave Jane a sense of closure to have visited.

Then onto Caen, a place I had never been to, and I suspect often overlooked by British visitors. A nice town and rebuilt after devastating Allied and German bombing, shelling and fighting. The large church in the centre still stands as the devastated ruin it was in 1944, a stark reminder to the death and destruction of the time. The display in the nearby Abbaye des Hommes shows most graphically what the town went through in June 1944 with many surviving in cellars with minimal food, water or medical facilities. Over 2000 Caen civilians died in the 4 week battle for the city, and barely a building was left unscathed.

On the way back we stopped off at Sword beach. Incredibly busy but very moving to hear a lone bagpiper playing to a small group of people on the beach, the sound of the pipes resonating across the open shoreline. On the sea front the impressive statue of Bill Millin, pipes in hand, towered above all the onlookers. He had piped ashore the forces on Sword beach on D Day, armed only with his pipes and determined to spur them on and to get off the beach and relative safety.

Thursday 6th June D Day 80th Anniversary - The big day

6^th June was the day we had come out for. An early call to avoid the blocked–off roads in the security zone from 6am and we arrived at the hub in Caen in good time to coaches to Ver sur Mer. After security and registration – our green wrist bands indicated we were in the ‘cheap seats’ – we boarded our coach with motorcycle escorts, and 40 minutes later arrived at the memorial in bright sunshine along with the 2000 invited guests. Most of us without breakfast, we were delighted to be met with most welcome coffee and croissants.

With some time before the memorial service started we are able to take in the whole scene. The silhouettes of the 1475 figures – Standing with Giants – about 7 feet high stood solemnly marking events of 80 years ago. The sea in the background and the blue sky above made the scene all the more moving compared with the bloody chaos of 80 years before. One figure for each British serviceman killed on D Day, with silhouettes depicting those from all the armed forces, a wonderful tribute to those who paid the ultimate price. Particularly poignant was the two huge figures of nurses who died on D Day.

We took our seats, most people in lounge suits and dresses, many wearing poppies and the service started. The dignitaries entered with the 40 or so Veterans receiving a huge round of applause, and many waving and with big smiles. The large screens gave us a great view of proceedings. The flypast was immaculate and the Red Arrows as exceptional as ever with one fly over only drowning out part of the National Anthem. With blue skies in the wonderfully tranquil setting overlooking Gold Beach and the Channel it was a most emotional and moving service… more tears and a beautiful event. The words spoken and the music played were outstanding and beautifully done. We do pageantry and remembrance very well.

The Memorial itself is most impressive. Opened only 4 years ago and overlooking Gold Beach it covers 44 acres, it is largely made up of French limestone pillars. Each pillar is engraved with the names of the 22,000 servicemen under British command who were killed in the Normandy campaign, which lasted until August 1944.

As Jane and I sat on a bench next to the Memorial with our Royal British Legion packed lunch – baguette, quiche, muffin and a coffee, all tres francais – with the Memorial itself largely empty, we were able to absorb the true scale and magnificence of it all. Beautifully made in the white stone, it pays true respect to those who served and especially those who didn’t return home. Inscribed are the names and ages of all those who died in Normandy. We were struck by their ages. A couple in their forties, some in their thirties but the vast majority aged from about 17 to 25 or 26….All young men whose lives were cut so short. It made us realise why those who did survive and returned home feel a level of not just sadness but of guilt of why they survived but their mates and comrades did not.

Friday 7th June – Returning Home

The ferry home was very full and everyone seemed physically and emotionally drained by event. The veterans were still there and immaculately presented, but looked tired and maybe even older after what must have been an exhausting few days for them with many events to attend.

Reflections and Memories

Jane and I were privileged to be able to attend this 80^th celebration and commemoration. I can safely say it was perhaps the best, most moving few days of my life, outside family events.

What thoughts remain with me?

How much the French Normandy population embrace and recognise the liberating forces and their families. Flags and bunting on so many houses and streets, pictures of British veterans flapping from lamp posts. Every small village was celebrating and remembering the events of 80 years before.
I had not expected to see Canadian flags alongside the British and American ones on an equal footing. It made me realise that I and British historians had greatly and unfortunately underestimated and under-appreciated the role of our Canadian allies.
The scale of the French civilian casualties in Normandy…over 20,000 killed and many more injured and their homes destroyed. And despite the huge casualties, there was no sign of resentment, just of gratitude for their freedom, even at a high price.
The British casualties. Over 22,000 killed in Normandy with 1475 on D day itself. Because of the much larger numbers killed on Omaha beach on D Day and films like Saving Private Ryan, we can sometimes be fooled into thinking the landing of British troops on D Day was a ‘walk in the park’. It certainly wasn’t. And looking over the landing beaches, it is a wonder how any ever got off the beaches.

And we must always remember that D Day and the Normandy campaign was only the first small yet hugely significant steps to the liberation of Europe and VE Day 11 months later. Many who survived Normandy sadly did not make it to war’s end.

5. The D Day event in Normandy itself. So much to take in. Everyone there full of respect for what happened, the veterans, those who didn’t come home, those that did. Total respect for everyone involved and a pride in our country. So many people who wished they had spoken more to their fathers, grandfathers, uncles etc about what they did. The Memorial itself is a fantastic and fitting tribute to all the Normandy veterans. Beautifully positioned and constructed, it is a must for everyone to visit.

6. And finally, it is the recognition that such a commemoration of D Day can never happen again. All the veterans are over 95 years old and few will be alive or fit enough to travel in 5 or 10 years’ time. The passing of a generation.

An amazing and historic few days. For Jane it brought about a level of closure as her Dad, Bert and Uncle Stan, who had never managed to get back to Normandy before they died.

And for me, to remember my cousin’s father, my Uncle Alan who fought throughout the Normandy campaign and then onwards through Holland and Germany until the end of the war.

We remember and salute them all.

Andy Cockeram Chairman , BMMHS

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